I think the most requested look I get for clients is “a smokey eye” – everyone wants a smokey eye.
But not all smokey eyes are created equal. And a smokey eye does not mean black, it just means that the eyeshadow is blended out in such a way that it smokes out. You could do reds, blues, the statement blacks, or like today, a shimmery pewter one.
I’m going to spend the next couple weeks going over the different types of smokey eyes that you can create, so if you’re scared of smokey eyes – be scared no more!
Here are some definitions you guys need to know:
Blending: it’s when a color is placed on an eyelid and then smoothed out with a brush, you never just place a color and leave it there.
Blending color: usually a color a shade or two darker than your skin tone. This will help all colors work together better. You never want a super light color next to a super dark one, so to make the shadows work better together, you use a blending color.
Favorite blending colors: Soft Brown by MAC, Taupe by LORAC, Peach Smoothie by MUG.
Here are some things to always remember when doing smokey eyes:
– Be sure to fill in your eyebrows when doing heavy eye makeup, this will frame your face and more specifically, your eyes.
– ALWAYS highlight underneath your eyes with concealer when doing a smokey eye. Because there will be so much darkness, you don’t want your eyes to sink in.
– Do your eyes first (instead of foundation/concealer) when doing a smokey eye. There will usually be fallout from eye shadow and maybe even some messiness on your part, so do your eyes then wipe away any mess ups with a makeup wipe. It will make SUCH a difference, I promise!
– Dark base
– Lorac Pro Palette (when I just say a color in the tutorial – I’m referencing this palette)
– Lashes (optional but in my opinion, totally necessary)
Start with your dark base but apply ONLY on the lid. Blend out with finger, simply pat it out. This will create a base for our shadow and specifically our smokey eye, use a darker base to help colors stick out more. I used a brown but you could use a black base like this one for a darker effect. Then take your big blending brush and blend taupe all through the crease with windshield wiper motions. Next pat on pewter all over the eyelid (this will saturate the color instead of rubbing it around) and then blend out the edges with your small blending brush.
Next take the blending color again but with your smaller blending brush and blend in the crease. After everything is blended, add a little bit of sable and go into the crease again. This will give us the “smoke effect” – we don’t want any pewter in the upper crease. Next take a dark brown (or black if you’re feeling it) and place that in the outer corner of your lid with your pencil brush. Blend out again (are you sick of the work blend yet?) and bam, there’s your smokey eye. It’s just a lot of blending but it’s worth it. Next highlight your inner corner with Naked Lunch or Satin Taupe (or both like I did) and your brow bone with Naked Lunch.
Lastly take your darkest color, brown in this case on a pencil brush and place it underneath your bottom lash line. Then take satin taupe on the same pencil brush and blend it out. This is the key to the smokey eye, color on top and on bottom!
Winged liner + mascara + lashes = and you are done!
Stay smokey ladies,